June 21, 2009 by gastroplod
Sorry for not being in touch lately – been hanging out and about in Nice. Here’s my photo to prove it!
After a long, hot and frustrating trudge west along the Promenade des Anglais checking out various beachside establishments we descended on the Blue Beach Bar & Restaurant and were more than pleasantly surprised by the warm welcome. Although our waiter resembled Peter Stringfellow’s simple cousin he was adequately dressed (thank God) and brought us our reasonably priced, reasonably tasty food and wine in reasonable time: amazing, and in stark contrast to Lido Plage. For me, the filets de rouget (red mullet) au thym:
et pour lui, les tagliatelles au basilic (do you really need a translation?), toothsome albeit tepid, which was actually ok on such a warm afternoon:
plus, of course, the de rigeur bottle of Côtes de Provence rosé. All at not-so-shocking-after-all prices, at least for the Côte d’Azur….
… and that old devil Nicolas Sarkozy lurking in the underground area only added to the charm of the afternoon.
Blue Beach bar & restaurant, 31 Promenade des Anglais, Nice 06000 – opposite the Negresco
website
menu
Posted in Summer, fast food, pubs & bars, wine | Tagged food, Nice, restaurants, Summer, wine | 2 Comments »
May 7, 2009 by gastroplod
Am I nuts? This short clip was taken over a year ago, and in the depths of winter, yet it still reminds me of sunnier climes. I’m just getting excited about getting back to Vieux Nice: next trip I’ll try to snap some sultry summertime footage.
done
Might be an idea to turn down the sound thanks to the blustery Mistral…or Tramontana…not sure which wind was blowing at the time but either way it made a horrible noise!
Posted in Winter, overseas, spring | Tagged Vieux Nice | Leave a Comment »
March 14, 2009 by gastroplod
And then I tried the Maltese sanguines: smaller and cheaper by 50p, sharper and less fragrant. A much milder thrill than the stunning Sicilian Tarocco, but a welcome dose of sunshine all the same.
Posted in shopping, spring | 2 Comments »
March 10, 2009 by gastroplod
Treat time at Waitrose: Tarocco “blush” oranges are on the shelves again, it’s Blood Orange season!
Much as I disapprove in theory, I do understand blood oranges’ rebranding to something a little less daunting; I remember as a child when presented with a carefully peeled and segmented Blood Orange I used to wonder if it really might be blood I was eating, and if so, whose, and how did it get there and how did they die – and then losing my appetite. It’s a hard sell to the impressionable.
Blush might not be original nor evoke the sunshine blazing from the heart of each fruit, but if it means we can still get hold of these sparkling gems of the citrus world then I’m all for it, and as wrote Shakespeare for Juliet,
“What’s in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet.”
And the Tarocco is certainly sweet: it’s one of the world’s most popular oranges, apparently, thanks to its sweetness, juciness AND glorious subtleties of flavour. I’m told it also happens to contain the highest Vitamin C content of any orange variety grown in the world, PLUS a bucketful of anthocyanin antioxidants (thanks to the red bits). As if that weren’t temptation enough the wonderful Tarocco is seedless and its thin skin is easy to peel – very little pith too.
It’s also pretty right-on, what with having its own AOC – or is that IGT – or DOP? Not sure, but it’s EU protected, its production having been under threat from the ubiquitous and frankly dull in comparison Navel and Valencia oranges (of no fixed abode). BBC Radio 4’s Food Programme about blood/blush orange growing in Sicily is excellent, full of information and an aural evocation of sunny Sicily, most welcome with our bleak British winter as yet unwilling to relinquish its icy grip: listen again and again…
I don’t advocate doing anything with a Tarocco during its short season of availability other than devouring it raw and alone (the orange, that is). You could admire its rosy beauty in a salad with chicory or fennel with a strew of black olives, but don’t waste the exuberance of its flavour and fragrance by cooking a Tarocco – better buy a Seville for that.
Posted in Winter, shopping, slow food, spring | Tagged fruit, orange, shopping, Waitrose | Leave a Comment »
March 9, 2009 by gastroplod
Cooks are always wonking on about this or that great piece of equipment and now I’m joining the fray on account of this sexy beast. Sorry folks, but just look and learn.
What makes this not-tiny-at-all tool terrific is the depth, fit and grip of its bowl, allowing me to pound and grind to my heart’s content without everything jumping out, flying around and splashing me in the face before I’m finished. It’s pestle as pile driver, its own weight and impressive girth providing enough crushing power to take care of most comers; I just grip it tight, lift a couple of inches and drop – it hits the spot every time, saving my wrists for erm, other activities.
This is no sausage-in-a-bucket hog-the-kitchen-countertop and splatter-it-all-around Jamie Oliver-style mortar (and who grinds uncooked black-eyed beans anyway?). It’s hunky-chunky, good-looking and it gets the job done: more of a Rowley Leigh – or newcomer Valentine Warner for that matter. Solid, unpretentious, down to earth.
The granite interior provides a bit of rough grip too, fluffing creamy aïoli and red rouïlle to peaks of perfection.
With this monochrome monster I’m never looking back, but even so I’m holding on to my mini marble mortar for small quantities of spices or rough salt – that’s about it tho’.
Posted in terrific tools | Tagged mortar, pestle | 2 Comments »
February 6, 2009 by gastroplod
Oh what lovely friends I have! Dear (not my cousin) Vinny takes a trip home to Montebelluna, 65km north of Venice, 35km north of Treviso (this is important), and brings me back the best souvenir I can imagine: three feisty heads of radicchio. Not just any old radicchio, mind, these are the ne plus ultra of radicchios. I quote Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers from River Cafe Cookbook Green (the only River Cafe cookbook worth having, imho):
The most flavourful and prized, this comes last in the season. It is less common, even in Italy, as it is only grown in a small area around the town of Treviso. Identifiable by its large thick edible root and long, thin, pointed dark red leaves, it’s delicious simply grilled or pan-fried and is equally good in salads.
Now poor Vincent had a few delays what with the weather and work commitments – I’m a little confused as to what exactly happened he explained so fast but the gist is he bought them last Saturday and now it’s Friday – so they’re getting on a bit, but what the hey? They’re a darn sight fresher looking than many a head of common or garden radicchio rosso di Verona lurking about my local greengrocer’s stall…
…and an hour or two spent in the dark refreshing in the chilled water of my champagne bucket while I hunt for the perfect recipe might even perk them up. Certainly can’t do them any harm. What a joyful surprise to light up a dark chilly February day. Oh, lucky Gastroplod! Thank you, Vincenzo!
Hugh Fearnley-Wittingstall writes about the joy of chicory in The Guardian Weekend section:
Posted in Autumn/Fall | Leave a Comment »
February 4, 2009 by gastroplod
Criminy it’s been a long while. I can barely remember what it is to celebrate been so busy shivering. And as for getting up in the morning – grrr fuggedaboudit if you can. All that’s left for a sensitive soul trapped inside a chilly body is to cook, and cook good, food to warm the cockles without spending a fortune: between Christmas and the Credit Crunch it’s a blessed relief to put on a decent lunch. To that end, I dug out my ancient french semi-glazed earthenware bean pot from the darkest recess of the attic. I was always too timid to place it over direct heat, but since crossing that Rubicon I’ve been simply bowled over by the fabulous job it does on dried pulses: it just can’t be beat, nothing else has ever come close in achieving the perfectly cooked, mealy yet tender texture, even and especially with the hitherto-notoriously-impossible-to-get-right butter beans and chick peas. Here’s a small selection of what’s been emerging from my kitchen, no tinned pulses here:
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spaghetti with mushrooms, bacon and cream
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butternut squash risotto
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simple cassoulet
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cassoulet with bean pot & cookbook
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Fabada Asturiana
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smoked haddock fishcake
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Thai Yellow Curry
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Purple Sprouting Broccoli
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spiced venison stew
I’m particularly proud of the fishcake/fishbomb, inspired by the tasty depth-charge served at Fishworks on Swallow Street and coated with panko breadcrumbs – waiting patiently in the pantry wings since last summer’s Wing Yip spree – but what should these friable morsels adorn next? Hmm…just before Christmas Mr T’s starter chez Brasserie Blanc was the most delectable pair of Gruyere croquettes so I might have a go at replicating those … I foresee a bit of enjoyable research on my horizon!
Posted in Winter, credit crunch | Tagged beans, food, ingredients, slow food | Leave a Comment »
January 15, 2009 by gastroplod
I won’t bore you with the details but something set me barking up the tree of making Bloody Marys with an Italian twist, my dilemma being how to add that sospetto d’Italiano without spending yet more money.
Unlikely inspiration strikes in the form of a Martini Rosso bottle, bought for a bout of Americano/Negroni mixing but left to languish on the shelf for many a month. I mean, what do you really need Martini Rosso for, once you’re past legal drinking age? I gave its neck a doubtful sniff while holding the taste of tomato in my mind and whaddyouknow – the herbal aromas which give vermouth its character conjured a pretty appetising spectre. I’m not about to replace the vodka entirely mind – there’s a fine line between innovation and absurdity – but a dash or two of red vermouth could stand in quite nicely for the oft-suggested dose of dry sherry, surely?
You betcha it can. It tastes so good that’s how I’ll be blending together this blessed brunch-time bevvy from now on … until the bottle’s finished that is: waste not want not!
Maria Sanguinosa
- 50cl vodka per person
- 100 – 150cl tomato juice per person ( Big Tom spiced is brilliant)
- 20cl Martini Rosso per person
- 2 shakes each: Tabasco Green, Chipotle and Regular
- 1 teaspoon grated horseradish
- 2 smart shakes Worcestershire Sauce (couldn’t resist the Special Edition Extra Matured)
Combine vodka, tomato juice, Martini Rosso, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauces and horseradish in a glass pitcher and stir (preferably with a glass swizzle stick) to mix. Frost highball glasses using lime juice and celery salt and tumble a couple of cubes or so of ice in each, then top up with the vodka mixture. Garnish with a leafy celery stick snapped from the inner heart. Imbibe gently, not forgetting plenty of tasty brunch food to soak it up.
Posted in Winter, drinks, recipes | Tagged Bloody Mary, brunch | Leave a Comment »
December 29, 2008 by gastroplod
I love a mix of tradition and innovation at Christmas; mingling fresh with familiar keeps things comfortably interesting (and interestingly comfortable if we’re lucky). I apply this rule of thumb as strictly to victuals as visitors – and generally have as good a day as Nigella might shake her spatula at, even when suffering from the dreaded URTI currently doing the rounds.
A Christmas morning cocktail is one essential tradition but presents the challenge of tiptoeing that tricky tightrope of merriment over mayhem, and as I didn’t want this year’s first-ever goose to be cooked before getting stuffed, so to speak, I needed a milder-mannered solution than usual.
Christmas CinCinCin
1 part Campari
2 parts fresh clementine juice (in 1-litre cartons from M&S)
2 parts Champagne
It’s a cinch: take your champagne glasses, pour an inch of Campari in the bottom, fill halfway to brim with clementine juice then top up with Champagne. Cin cin! – cin!!!
I’ve hardly re-invented the wheel but no matter; this fluteful of festivity is deliciously more-ish yet allowed me to stay roughly vertical all day. It’s a seasonal triumvurate of Christmassy C’s; Campari, Champagne and clementine juice. Don’t be churlish about the Campari, it couldn’t be a cheerier colour and it needed using up besides. Champagne speaks for itself but Cava could slip in without disturbing the alliteration. When we ran out of Campari it turned into a CinCin – at least at my house, from which that vulgar term Buck’s Fizz is forever banned while its alternative Americanism, the Mimosa, is far too fey for a febrile few. The Cincincin on the other hand, looks festive, sounds festive and tastes festive. Hardly surprisingly, it makes you feel pretty festive too. I wouldn’t turn one down on New Year’s Day either, but in keeping with Plod tradition I daresay I’ll be mixing Bloody Marys again…watch this space.
Oh bum – it’s just been pointed out to me that Sam and Eddie Hart of Quo Vadis, Barrafina et al make something very similar with their not-very-wittily named Campari and Cava cocktail. Do go ahead and follow their recipe if you like a complicated life…but if you just want a great Yuletide drinkypoo, stick with mine.
btw – if you too succumb to the nasty throat attack, try lying on your stomach with a hot water bottle between the shoulder blades: best achieved in bed with a comfy blanket and spouse at beck and call. Couldn’t have done it without Mr T-for-Terrific so it’s a good thing I got him a cashmere cardie for Christmas! Definitely an investment piece…
Posted in Winter, recipes, wine | Tagged Christmas, cocktail | Leave a Comment »
December 16, 2008 by gastroplod
Mmmm, yummy yum yum. A brand new juicy cookbook from a great galumphing goofy guy with big heart, bold -not bolshy- bearing and a neat turn of phrase. I shot to the online reservation page of my local library’s website and lo and behold picked up Valentine Warner’s hefty tome a mere two days later. The writing is delightful, most recipes have an entertaining vignette to accompany and there are plenty of tasty morsels for tryouts. As for this one, as there’s not much wild boar to be had (legally at least) on the Kent & Sussex border, pork had to be substitute in his deliciously different recipe. A fine dish for a dim and damp winter night: the following is my adaptation and scaled-down version-for-two-with-leftovers-for-lunch of Valentine’s Tuscan original, which actually serves 6-8.
Pork, Anchovy and Black Olive Stew on Polenta
500g boneless pork (shoulder or leg meat) in large-ish chunks
olive oil (or use anchovy oil from the tin)
1 large sprig fresh rosemary
4 cloves garlic, peeled
6 anchovy, fillets (use the whole tin if you’re opening one especially)
1 onion, diced finely
1 fennel bulb, diced finely
thick strips of rind of 1/2 lemon
2 large glasses big-boned red wine (preferably Italian)
1 cinnamon stick
1 TBS tomato purée
4 TBS niçoise olives
Heat a couple of TBS olive oil with the rosemary sprig in a heavy, preferably cast-iron pot. When fairly warm add the garlic cloves and anchovies, stirring about so their flesh melts to a sludge. Add the onion and fennel and cook covered for 10-15 minutes until seriously cooked through, only adding the juice from the lemon if it looks like drying out – which it probably won’t.
Throw in the pork (no need to brown it first!) and stir, then add the wine, cinnamon stick and tomato purée; stir again then tip the lot into a small slow cooker set to auto. Cover and leave to bubble away for several hours (I’d give it a minimum of four) then toss in the olives, stir about and leave for another hour or two.
Serve over polenta with a scattering of gremolata if you’re not meeting clients the next day, just parsley if you are… and steamed spinach on the side.
Incidentally, this Tuscan method and flavour combination appears frequently now I come to think of it. I have cooked lamb in just the same way, but never before with anchovies and now I wonder why not: they give such a wonderful rich, toothsome savour when melted down into the background, the very essence of umami. Lemon peel and rosemary contribute their own pungent perfumes to an outstanding sauce, thickened only by softened onion and fennel, which now occurs to me is reminiscent of osso bucco – see? nothing new under the sun, yet new delights to discover every day. It’s the miracle of cooking.
What to Eat Now by Valentine Warner
Posted in Autumn/Fall, Winter, books, recipes | Tagged pork, recipe, slow cooker, stew, Valentine Warner | 2 Comments »
