Well, fo-di-oh-dee; what a wonderful weekend! Kicked it off on Maundy Thursday with a visit to the remarkably beautiful Le Café Anglais, courtesy of their magnanimous Friend for a Fiver offer: this consisted of halving the total food bill for the two of us and adding just five pounds to the remainder. For the mathematically minded, our alimental equation was thus:
£ (12+9.5+24.5+29.5+3)/2 +5 = £44.25
And what a terrific deal: we descended as a pair of locusts intent of bankrupting Rowley Leigh by our greed but, on finding ourselves defeated by the gentlemanly generosity of his portioning, declined dessert. A cover charge, wine, coffee and service boosted the bill considerably, but every penny was worth the spend. What a thrill to sip chilled Saumur (blanc et rouge), over a sunny spring luncheon in such stunning surroundings: a total treat.
No pix though; I’ve become a bit squeamish about photo-ing food in public and there are plenty already online… suffice to say the icy oysters could not have been fresher, a holy trio of hors d’oeuvres lived up to their legendary status, the St. George’s mushrooms were an earthly delight, the salsify cooked to perfection – yes, every complimentary cliché about this place is true. And as far as I’m concerned, no photo could do justice to the majesty of the art deco architectonics either. I recommend you go and enjoy.
Talk about putting a spring in our step; we spent the rest of the afternoon strolling across the western edge of Hyde Park, admiring the view from the upper deck of a Number 9 bus before winding our way across Soho and Covent Garden to Charing Cross and then home.
Well, with the stunning weekend weather I think we all felt a bit resurrected by Easter Monday; fit and ready for fresh somethings – anythings after the long winter hibernation. But, having forgotten to go to the farmers’ market on Saturday our only “fresh” fixings were frozen peas. What? Ok, frozen peas: they’re “fresher” than fresh peas, so there. What was at first a disappointment and a waste of ingredients I transformed into something that blew us all away, hooray: fresh herbs and fresh ricotta can take you a long, long way.
pea, lettuce & lovage soup with pea & ricotta bruschetta
The soup took inspiration from Mark Hix’s multiple versions on The Independent’s website, or those given by Hugh Fearnley-Wittingshall at various locations. I did it this way:
a goodly knob of butter – about 15g or 1/2 oz
1 or 2 leeks, washed and shredded
1 little gem lettuce, shredded
200g frozen peas
500 ml vegetable stock (I haul out the Swiss Marigold)
6 lovage leaves (strong flavour, taste as you go)
Sweat the leeks in the butter until soft, about 10 minutes. Add lettuce and peas, turn to coat in butter and soften gently under a lid for 5 minutes-odd. Add the vegetable stock, bring to a boil then cover and simmer until the peas are tender – about 10 minutes. Blend, adding lovage leaves gingerly, tasting all the while. If, like me, you have a not-very-good hand blender it won’t do a great job and your soup will never attain the desired smoothness. I kept going to no avail, so eventually decided to sieve it. This produced a fine-flavoured thin soup and a mountain of debris – far too much to waste indeed, hence the bruschetta.
Bruschetta with pea and ricotta
leftovers from sieving pea soup
sufficient ricotta to lighten the leftovers to a spreadable consistency (2 tablespoons perhaps)
a grating of fresh lemon zest
several drops fresh lemon juice
small sprig fresh mint, chopped fine
a scattering of fresh chives, chopped fine
one small clove fresh garlic, any central green shoot removed
a couple of slices pain de campagne
a drizzle (YES – a drizzle) extra virgin olive oil, or, even better, lemon oil
Stir together the pea solids and ricotta, add the herbs to taste and season. Grill the bread on both sides, and once lightly toasted, rub the garlic clove over the surface, as when making Pa Amb Oli (minus the tomato, natch). Top with the pea and ricotta mixture, apply the drizzle of oil and sprinkle with the scatter of herbs. Serve the soup in small cups alongside the bruschetta.
ps – I can report that the soup tastes just as good, if not better, chilled the next day – perfect for the hot weather of late.