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Archive for September, 2008

duck fat galoreFollowing the laziest roast crispy duck in history my duck fat jar runneth over … almost.  So it should see us through the coming winter unless we take it into our heads to make confit and, considering the mess involved, I rather hope we don’t.

Duck fat is by far the best medium for roasting potatoes or greasing Yorkshire pudding tins and it’s ever my fat of choice for browning winter casseroles or starting off any dishes from the Basque or Languedoc regions.   Now I know goose fat is supposed to be even better, but given the price of a goose you might as well resign yourself to buying a tin of it and forego the satisfaction of making your own.  But duck fat is different: easier to come by and a most inconvenient waste product to dispose of if you can’t be bothered to save it.  If prepared with a modicum of care and kept in a reasonably cool and dark place it will survive for yonks outside the fridge: I keep mine on a shelf in the garage.

Just pour off the rendered fat during and after roasting a duck plain and slow (eg 6 to 7 hours at 140C) and leave it to cool overnight in the fridge.  Lift the fat away from any stray juices lurking underneath then reheat it to liquify.  Any moisture will bubble away, so when its puttering stops strain the liquid fat through a sieve lined with a couple of layers of muslin or even kitchen roll into a sterilised preserving jar and seal.  Discard the brown bits!  Enjoy its golden glow fading to white as it cools then hoard and scoop out as needed with a clean, dry spoon.

Depending on size one easily-available Gressingham duck should render at least 250ml fat. If you do nothing else with it, use a couple of tablespoons for roasting potatoes and greasing your Yorkshire pudding tin: you’ll be glad you did.

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if it’s yellow let it mellow

Limoncello – what’s not to like?  For me it conjures up memories of a certain bijou hotel bar just off the Spanish Steps in Rome, we nuzzling and snuggling into the velvet sofa to the sound of our multi-talented and heavily-accented Italian crooner twiddling his Moog synthesizer while giving us his vocal stylings of Captain of her Heart, or fond reminiscence of a sweltering afternoon in Vieux Nice when the heavy-set fortune-telling proprietor of Chez Palmyre refilled our espresso cups with a dose of home brewed, brought up in a metal jug dripping cool from his cellar next door…

…so why oh why does my own homemade effort look like piss and taste worse?  I’m hoping for limpid and cloudy – lots of mouthfeel thank you very much – but instead it’s a screechy dose of acridity, more of a morning after than a night before and no matter how long I keep the damn stuff it just doesn’t get any better.

Considering I went to the trouble of heaving back a couple of kilos of organic lemons from Menton on the Côte d’Azur, scrubbed them well and used organic sugar I think I might be forgiven for expecting a better result.

My big mistake might have been using alcool pour fruits rather than voddy but seriously, do they use vodka in Sorrento?  I imagined this would make it all the more authentic but I couldn’t have been more wrong.

If anyone has managed to produce a classic pale yellow, opaque digestif from lemons, alcohol and sugar I sure would love to know how you did it.

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