And then I tried the Maltese sanguines: smaller and cheaper by 50p, sharper and less fragrant. A much milder thrill than the stunning Sicilian Tarocco, but a welcome dose of sunshine all the same.
Archive for March, 2009
sanguine bloody sanguines
Posted in shopping, spring on March 14, 2009| 2 Comments »
Bloody Taroccos
Posted in shopping, slow food, spring, Winter, tagged fruit, orange, shopping, Waitrose on March 10, 2009| Leave a Comment »
Treat time at Waitrose: Tarocco “blush” oranges are on the shelves again, it’s Blood Orange season!
Much as I disapprove in theory, I do understand blood oranges’ rebranding to something a little less daunting; I remember as a child when presented with a carefully peeled and segmented Blood Orange I used to wonder if it really might be blood I was eating, and if so, whose, and how did it get there and how did they die – and then losing my appetite. It’s a hard sell to the impressionable.
Blush might not be original nor evoke the sunshine blazing from the heart of each fruit, but if it means we can still get hold of these sparkling gems of the citrus world then I’m all for it, and as wrote Shakespeare for Juliet,
“What’s in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet.”
And the Tarocco is certainly sweet: it’s one of the world’s most popular oranges, apparently, thanks to its sweetness, juciness AND glorious subtleties of flavour. I’m told it also happens to contain the highest Vitamin C content of any orange variety grown in the world, PLUS a bucketful of anthocyanin antioxidants (thanks to the red bits). As if that weren’t temptation enough the wonderful Tarocco is seedless and its thin skin is easy to peel – very little pith too.
It’s also pretty right-on, what with having its own AOC – or is that IGT – or DOP? Not sure, but it’s EU protected, its production having been under threat from the ubiquitous and frankly dull in comparison Navel and Valencia oranges (of no fixed abode). BBC Radio 4’s Food Programme about blood/blush orange growing in Sicily is excellent, full of information and an aural evocation of sunny Sicily, most welcome with our bleak British winter as yet unwilling to relinquish its icy grip: listen again and again…
I don’t advocate doing anything with a Tarocco during its short season of availability other than devouring it raw and alone (the orange, that is). You could admire its rosy beauty in a salad with chicory or fennel with a strew of black olives, but don’t waste the exuberance of its flavour and fragrance by cooking a Tarocco – better buy a Seville for that.
wrestle a (mortar &) pestle
Posted in terrific tools, tagged mortar, pestle on March 9, 2009| 5 Comments »
Cooks are always wonking on about this or that great piece of equipment and now I’m joining the fray on account of this sexy beast. Sorry folks, but just look and learn.
What makes this not-tiny-at-all tool terrific is the depth, fit and grip of its bowl, allowing me to pound and grind to my heart’s content without everything jumping out, flying around and splashing me in the face before I’m finished. It’s pestle as pile driver, its own weight and impressive girth providing enough crushing power to take care of most comers; I just grip it tight, lift a couple of inches and drop – it hits the spot every time, saving my wrists for erm, other activities.
This is no sausage-in-a-bucket hog-the-kitchen-countertop and splatter-it-all-around Jamie Oliver-style mortar (and who grinds uncooked black-eyed beans anyway?). It’s hunky-chunky, good-looking and it gets the job done: more of a Rowley Leigh – or newcomer Valentine Warner for that matter. Solid, unpretentious, down to earth.
The granite interior provides a bit of rough grip too, fluffing creamy aïoli and red rouïlle to peaks of perfection.
With this monochrome monster I’m never looking back, but even so I’m holding on to my mini marble mortar for small quantities of spices or rough salt – that’s about it tho’.
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