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Archive for February, 2009

Oh what lovely friends I have!  Dear (not my cousin) Vinny takes a trip home to Montebelluna,  65km north of Venice, 35km north of Treviso (this is important), and brings me back the best souvenir I can imagine:  three feisty heads of radicchio.  Not just any old radicchio, mind, these are the ne plus ultra of radicchios.  I quote Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers from River Cafe Cookbook Green (the ultimate River Cafe cookbook):

The most flavourful and prized, this comes last in the season.  It is less common, even in Italy, as it is only grown in a small area around the town of Treviso.  Identifiable by its large thick edible root and long, thin, pointed dark red leaves, it’s delicious simply grilled or pan-fried and is equally good in salads.

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Now poor Vincent had a few delays what with the weather and work commitments – I’m a little confused as to what exactly happened he explained so fast but the gist is he bought them last Saturday and now it’s Friday – so they’re getting on a bit, but what the hey?  They’re a darn sight fresher looking than many a head of common or garden radicchio rosso di Verona lurking about my local greengrocer’s stall…

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…and an hour or two spent  in the dark refreshing in the chilled water of my champagne bucket while I hunt for the perfect recipe might even perk them up.  Certainly can’t do them any harm.  What a joyful surprise to light up a dark chilly February day.  Oh, lucky Gastroplod! Thank you, Vincenzo!

Hugh Fearnley-Wittingstall writes about the joy of chicory in The Guardian Weekend section:

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Hibernation

Criminy it’s been a long while.  I can barely remember what it is to celebrate been so busy shivering.  And as for getting up in the morning – grrr fuggedaboudit if you can.  All that’s left for a sensitive soul trapped inside a chilly body is to cook, and cook good, food to warm the cockles without spending a fortune: between Christmas and the Credit Crunch it’s a blessed relief to put on a decent lunch.  To that end, I dug out my ancient french semi-glazed earthenware bean pot from the darkest recess of the attic.  I was always too timid to place it over direct heat, but since crossing that Rubicon I’ve been simply bowled over by the fabulous job it does on dried pulses: it just can’t be beat, nothing else has ever come close in achieving the perfectly cooked, mealy yet tender texture, even and especially with the hitherto-notoriously-impossible-to-get-right butter beans and chick peas.   Here’s a small selection of what’s been emerging from my kitchen, no tinned pulses here:

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I’m particularly proud of the fishcake/fishbomb, inspired by the tasty depth-charge served at Fishworks on Swallow Street and coated with panko breadcrumbs – waiting patiently in the pantry wings since last summer’s Wing Yip spree – but what should these friable morsels adorn next?  Hmm…just before Christmas Mr T’s starter chez Brasserie Blanc was the most delectable pair of Gruyere croquettes so I might have a go at replicating those … I foresee a bit of enjoyable research on my horizon!

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