Oh what lovely friends I have! Dear (not my cousin) Vinny takes a trip home to Montebelluna, 65km north of Venice, 35km north of Treviso (this is important), and brings me back the best souvenir I can imagine: three feisty heads of radicchio. Not just any old radicchio, mind, these are the ne plus ultra of radicchios. I quote Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers from River Cafe Cookbook Green (the ultimate River Cafe cookbook):
The most flavourful and prized, this comes last in the season. It is less common, even in Italy, as it is only grown in a small area around the town of Treviso. Identifiable by its large thick edible root and long, thin, pointed dark red leaves, it’s delicious simply grilled or pan-fried and is equally good in salads.
Now poor Vincent had a few delays what with the weather and work commitments – I’m a little confused as to what exactly happened he explained so fast but the gist is he bought them last Saturday and now it’s Friday – so they’re getting on a bit, but what the hey? They’re a darn sight fresher looking than many a head of common or garden radicchio rosso di Verona lurking about my local greengrocer’s stall…
…and an hour or two spent in the dark refreshing in the chilled water of my champagne bucket while I hunt for the perfect recipe might even perk them up. Certainly can’t do them any harm. What a joyful surprise to light up a dark chilly February day. Oh, lucky Gastroplod! Thank you, Vincenzo!
Hugh Fearnley-Wittingstall writes about the joy of chicory in The Guardian Weekend section:
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