One (mental) escape from the enforced trogloditism (yes that’s my word) of this year’s Whitsun Bank Holiday might be via a 2 minute video in The Times travel section: that suavely sincere and sincerely suave Raymond Blanc tucked into a pink bib while explaining and demonstrating that classic and exclusive Mediterranean dish, bouillabaisse, in a location just to the east of Nice on the Côte d’Azur.
If Raymond himself fails to delight (hardly likely), pay a cyber-visit to his venue – the fabulous Coco Beach restaurant – for a quick fix of Riviera deluxe. No wonder he’s smiling.
It’s such an old saw that bouillabaisse can be made only with local rockfish that I shan’t labour the point here. Mind you, with French fisherman stunt pulling once more I’ve a good mind to hire myself a speedboat and raid their waters of every loup, lotte, rouget and rascasse I can find. Just need a bit of marine diesel…
Until such time, I am willing to share my delightful version using chicken in place (no pun intended) of fish:
Pouillabaisse™ aka Chicken Bouillabaisse
serves 4
- 8 boneless chicken thighs, skinned and cut in large chunks
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 2 bulbs fennel, chunked – keep fronds for garnish
- 1 clove garlic, sliced fine
- generous pinch of saffron
- a sprig of thyme, 2 bay leaves
- 1 tin of tomatoes (whole or chopped, whatever is on hand)
- generous slug of pastis
- 1 litre or so chicken stock
- 500g waxy or new potatoes, peeled and chunked
- olive oil
We want to keep the flavours pure and clear, so in a large cast iron casserole and over a medium heat, soften the onion and fennel in 2 tablespoons olive oil. After about 5 minutes add the garlic, saffron, thyme and bay leaves then pop the chicken pieces on top.
Sprinkle over the pastis then add half of the tomatoes with their juice (break them up with your wooden spoon if using whole). Add the potatoes and pour over sufficient chicken stock to almost cover the chicken and vegetables, then decide whether to add the rest of the tomatoes. We’re making a bouillabaisse here, and with the price of fennel and saffron we’re in polite company, so mustn’t allow the tomato to shout down the other flavours. Think visually – more yellow than red. If you think the tomato is in danger of taking over the party, top up with chicken stock. If not, add the rest of the tomatoes and top up with stock to barely cover.
Bring to the gentlest simmer, cover and cook for between 30 minutes and an hour until chicken and potatoes are cooked through. There should be plenty of liquid, so serve in shallow bowls, sprinkled with a dash of good olive oil and the chopped fennel fronds.
A homemade rouille sets it off perfectly. Recipe coming soon…
Gastroplod 